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Riccione, 2007-03-26 |
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A passion for cycling |
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Marc Millon gets on a bike in the hills of Romagna and discovers an Italian passion for cycling
Photographs by Marc Millon
I’m cycling up Monte Cesana in the steep balcony of hills that borders Emilia-Romagna and Le Marche. The climb, which was used in the Giro d’Italia two years ago, is ten kilometres long, and leads to Urbino. I’m on a brand new Scott carbon-fibre bicycle that is lightweight with gears suited to climbing in the mountains. But it’s still leg achingly hard all the same and the twisting climb seems interminable. Beside me is Colin Lewis, ex-Tour de France rider. “Get on a wheel,” Colin instructs, pushing me up to the cyclist in front. “Always get on a wheel.” Eventually, I reach the summit where the support vehicle awaits with drinks and panini. Colin congratulates me. No, I’m not dreaming. I’m on my first biking holiday in Italy.
A tasting day
The next day we enjoy an easy group ride. Our guide Edi leads us through stunning countryside, across rolling, sometimes steep hills topped with medieval and renaissance fortified towns, strongholds of the opposing Malatesta and Montefeltro dynasties that dominated this corner of Romagna. Verucchio is just such an example, strategically located on a hilly escarpment that overlooks the valley far below, with its commanding Rocca del Sasso staunchly visible from far and wide. We cycle up to the borgo fortificato then sit out under the arches in a stone-paved square and enjoy the simple pleasure of a well-earned Italian caffè — che buono!
Afterwards, we visit the Agriturismo il Germolio in nearby Covignano di Rimini, where we meet Gualtiero Frontali to enjoy an al fresco degustazione of his delicious products: extra-virgin olive oil, vegetables sott’olio, cured meats and salumi, pecorino cheeses, warm, freshly made piadina (the famous flat bread of Romagna) and crostata, a homemade tart, thickly spread with plum jam. We’ve cycled an easy 50km in the morning, and it’s only 10 km or so back to Riccione, so we relax with a glass or two of good Sangiovese wine. After an hour or two lolling around amidst the olive groves, it’s on the bikes again as Edi expertly guides us back through the lanes to our base in Riccione.
The Hotel Dory
We’re staying at the Hotel Dory in Riccione. In summer, this is a well-equipped, traditional seaside family hotel in the centre of this popular and always lively Adriatic resort. But from February until mid-June, and from September until early November, the hotel transforms itself into a dedicated cycling destination.
The hotel’s owner, Stefano Giuliodori, is himself passionate about cycling and above all about sharing the beauty of the Romagnolo entroterra — the lands that lie just beyond the coast. When he himself went on a cycling holiday in Austria more than a decade ago, it occurred to him that travelling on two wheels would offer the finest way for people to discover and enjoy the magnificent countryside of his own homeland. So he transformed the Hotel Dory into Riccione’s first cycling hotel in 1997 as well as helped to found Riccione Bike Hotels. This consortium, in consultation with the Rimini provincial government, has now devised some 20 signposted cycling itineraries suitable for cyclists of all levels.
“The idea,” says Stefano, “is very simple: to discover our wonderful region on bicycle. Cycling at a leisurely pace allows you to enjoy the beauty of the countryside, to discover and explore towns with centuries of history, to breathe in la natura, and to taste the foods of a region, whether stopping in a bar for a coffee, or at an agriturismo to taste formaggio di fossa, wines and other delicious local foods.”
What cyclists want…
The Hotel Dory has been running such holidays for a decade now and has learned through experience what makes a cycling holiday enjoyable for everyone. For those who don’t bring their own bicycles, the hotel offers an excellent Scott rental service with brand new bikes each year as well as a mechanic to help with any technical or mechanical problems. Every day, expert tour leaders are on hand to take groups out on clearly defined routes of varying degrees of ease or difficulty. As most rides finish in early afternoon, there is a daily cyclists’ buffet of antipasti and pasta for riders to enjoy after the rigours of their activities. There is also a wellness centre with whirlpool, swimming pool and treatments such as massage to ease aching limbs. In the evening, guests enjoy delicious, leisurely, and ample 4-course dinners that include freshly made pasta and typical specialities of Romagna, foods that wholly satisfy the ravenous appetites of hungry cyclists. And there are even daily excursions and activities for non-cycling partners.
Clearly it’s a formula that works. Since starting the cycling element of the Hotel Dory in 1997, the hotel is usually fully booked throughout the season with cyclists who come here from all over the world. A remarkably high percentage is return visitors.
Different spokes for different folks
Cycling in Italy has immense appeal for everyone at all levels, from casual and occasional cycling tourists who simply want to meander and explore at a leisurely pace, to the more serious cyclists who enjoy the exhilaration of fast group rides. And indeed, even for those who don’t yet consider themselves cyclists of any description at all, a cycling holiday is a great way for newcomers to this activity safely and confidently to enter into and enjoy Italy and Italian culture on two wheels.
At the Hotel Dory, mixed ability is catered for by the creation of four and sometimes five different cycling groups. Borghi e Castelli group is the most leisurely. Stefano Giuliodori himself often joins this group whenever he has the opportunity. The aim always is to cycle at a comfortable and sustainable pace where no one ever feels too slow, and to visit places that are at once beautiful and historic and which give an insight and flavour of the region. The route might travel along the signposted Strada dei Vini e dei Sapori dei Colli di Rimini with plenty of stops at bars for un caffè, or perhaps a stop to taste cheese or wine.
The most rigorous group, by contrast, is called Limoncino. This is designed for highly trained cyclists who are experienced and able to ride in a disciplined group peloton. The challenges here are limitless, with some great mountain climbs to test even the most demanding of riders. In between, there are usually two more moderately paced groups, the Super Cappuccino and Cappuccino that are suited respectively to keen and more leisurely recreational cyclists. It’s therefore a question of finding the level where you are most comfortable, and then changing up or down if necessary, either if the group doesn’t quite suit, or if, on one day or another, you’d like to have an easier or more challenging ride.
Whatever the pace or group, everyone has a chance to experience and indeed taste the beauty of the Romagnolo countryside. For example, one day a week, all group rides are designed to converge on Stefano’s family villa at Vecciano at around the same time. Here, cyclists relax and enjoy an alfresco meal of freshly cooked piadina, pasta, salumi, cheese, salads and grigliata mista, along with simple wines made from the family’s own Sangiovese and Trebbiano grapes. This is a wonderful occasion simply to relax in the sunshine, to luxuriate in the pleasures of a simple meal enjoyed outdoors, made all the more tasty and satisfying through being well earned by your own not inconsiderable efforts.
An Italian culture of cycling
The Hotel Dory attracts cyclists of all abilities. Colin Lewis, former British National Professional Champion, has returned for the past four years, sometimes bringing with him groups or individuals who wish to learn from and ride with one of Britain’s most respected cyclists.
“I love coming here,” explains Colin. “Italy is a country with such a fantastic and unsurpassable history, culture, music, fashion, food, everything. Cycling is part of this national culture and there is clearly a passion here for the sport. Whatever your level, the cycling is always challenging and rewarding, the scenery is breathtaking, and the guides ensure that your efforts are rewarded with visits to magnificent destinations, from tiny fortified villages near the coast to majestic hilltop towns such as Urbino.
“Cycling in Italy,” adds Lewis, “is an experience that is unforgettable. It encapsulates everything that is good about cycling.”
Italy by bicycle
It is incredible how much of Italy you can discover by your own efforts on two wheels. Stefano Giuliodori is passionate to share his love of cycling and to encourage everyone of whatever ability to come to Italy and ride, not just in Riccione but throughout the country. Following the success of his initiatives with Riccione Bike Hotels, he has recently helped to found Italy Bike Hotels, a consortium of specialist cycling hotels located all over the country.
“Wherever in Italy you wish to visit, the best way to know a region or a locality is to explore it by bicycle,” he says.
It’s a concept that I wholly endorse. In these days of sustainable energy, cycling has never been more timely. It’s not only a physical activity and a sport, it’s also an economical and enjoyable means of transport that takes you places while improving your health and well-being at the same time. Quite simply, it’s the greatest way to explore Italy and to experience and enjoy the country in all its glory and incredible diversity.
Buona pedalata!
Fact file
Cycling with Colin Lewis contact Colin Lewis tel xxxxxx email colinpam.lewis@tiscali.co.uk
Cycling holidays in Romagna at the Hotel Dory www.hoteldory.it email info@hoteldory.it tel 0541 642896
Cycling holidsyas throughout Italy: Italy Bike Hotels www.italybikehotels.it email info@italybikehotels.it
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Riccione, 2007-01-01 |
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FLY LOW COST FOM LONDON (Luton) TO RIMINI |
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Starting June 29th you have the great opportunity to reach Riccione flying from LONDON (Luton) to RIMINI with the well known "low-cost" company EASYJET every Thuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday!
Flights starting € 30,99 (one way) taxes included and transfer service from the airport to Hotel Dory is FREE!
Check the times and reserve right now your seat at www.easyjet.com !
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Riccione, 2005-09-04 |
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Eurobike Friedrichshafen |
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From 1st to 4th September
International Bicycle Trade Exhibition
EUROBIKEis the business pivot of the cycle world: six months before the trend show, 2005 in Friedrichshafen – the exhibition management can already welcome an extraordinary interest on the part of exhibitors: 550 direct exhibitors from 34 countries, among them the leading manufacturers with all the big brand names.
Taking the centre stage at Eurobike 2005 is the specialized trade. The focus of the lecture programme is "Changes and Chances in the Specialized Trade".
The entire spectrum of the cycle and supply industry and the cycle fashion branch will be presented at the new exhibition centre in Friedrichshafen.
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Riccione, 2005-10-17 |
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The Cycle Show 2005 |
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13 - 16 October 2005 - London
The industry showcase for cycling products and services, the Cycle show has become a key event in the international events calendar. With over 130 stands: new product ranges for 2006 from the major bike brands.
The Cycle show is a unique preview of the bikes that will be in the shops next year. It provides the leading manufacturers with a fitting showcase for their latest bikes and accessories, as well giving niche brands and emerging companies an opportunity to get their products in front of their potential customers.
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Riccione, 2005-10-17 |
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The Roc d'Azur 2005 |
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From 12th 17th October 2005 - Fréjus - France
The Roc d'Azur is one of the most important MTB event in the world: it's a whole four days of racing and riding including a Roc Marathon (90km), shorter course races (39km), a separate women's race (39km).
All the races were run on variations of the Roc d'Azur course and held on the days prior to the main race and all provide good preparation for the full course race on the Sunday. As well as having a large event village with all major suspension fork and component manufacturers offering free servicing, and bike testing from every major bike manufacturer.
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Riccione, 2005-11-01 |
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Cycling holidays in Riccione, Italy |
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In April of this year, Lindsay, our three boys and I went to Riccione, Italy, for a one week cycling holiday where we stayed in the Hotel Dory, owned by Stefano Giuliodori. The Hotel Dory was the first hotel in Riccione which started to cater specifically for cyclists and it belongs to a whole chain of hotels across Italy which offer cycling holidays. Riccione is situated in the Northeast of Italy on the Adriatic coast and in the summer, it is one of Italy’s prime beach holiday resorts visited by huge numbers of people. In the spring and the autumn, it’s an ideal place for cycling as the temperatures are pleasant and the place is still fairly quiet. We had sunshine and no rain for the whole week we spent there.
As soon as you head West and leave the town behind, the roads become quiet and the hills start, in fact it becomes hard to find any flat bits of road. Some of the climbs are pretty long and can take up to half an hour, depending on how fast you go. The highest point I got to was 1000 m above sea level (Villagrande). There are a huge number of little roads and the possibilities for cyclists are endless. Some of the scenery is really stunning and the whole area is studded with beautiful little Italian villages where you can stop and enjoy a cup of Cappucino.
The Hotel Dory offers a great package for cyclists. It has a large area for bicycle storage with pumps, tools and even a mechanical service provided. You can hire first class Scott racing bikes for a reasonable price (98 euros per week) and every morning, rolls, bananas and fluid are provided for cycling trips. Each day, you can join one of four organised groups, depending on your level of fitness and the speed you want to go. The trips are put up on a notice board the night before (including a little map and altitude profile) and this gives you an idea of the distance and climbing involved. Each group is led by an experienced guide and there are usually one or two coffee stops per trip. The guide in my group, Riccardo Steiner, was Swiss and used to be a pro rider. He told me that he once rode in the Tour of Switzerland with the likes of Eddy Merckx. Although in his fifties, he is still a very formidable rider. The other guests in the hotel were mainly cyclists and came from places like Holland, France, Belgium, Austria, Germany and Switzerland. We were the only English speaking guests at the time but I believe that the hotel also often attracts visitors from Britain. We really enjoyed the multi-cultural, multi-lingual environment although at times this could prove quite challenging, especially on the rides. The owner, Stefano, is a really nice guy and a cycling enthusiast himself and comes out on some of the trips. He is fluent in Italian, French, German and English. Lindsay and I took it in turns to go on the guided rides and look after the children but there is usually still plenty of time in the afternoons after the groups return to go out alone if you are keen to get more riding under the belt. It’s also perfectly possible to do your own thing or mix some of the group rides with your own rides.
On return form the cycles in the afternoon, a buffet was provided with pasta, salad, vegetables and various cakes which is great in order to recharge the batteries and relax by the pool side. In the mornings, there is a breakfast buffet with lots and lots of choice and in the evenings, you can sample Italian cuisine in ‘Il Tulipano’, the hotel’s restaurant which serves excellent food which you can wash down with however much Italian wine you ask for. All this is included in the half board price and there is really no need to dine out anywhere else. The hotel also has a sauna, two large Jacuzzi baths and a small outdoor swimming pool which was still a bit cold at this time of the year but it did not deter our boys from making plenty use of it. You can even get a massage from a trained masseur in the hotel. There is also a play area for the ‘bambini’ including a play station which was a great attraction for our boys. Finally, there is a large lobby with a bar where you can sit, socialise and have a drink and every evening pre-dinner snacks would appear to whet our appetite. There is also an Internet point for free use. The staff in the hotel are very friendly and welcoming and make a big effort to make the stay as enjoyable as possible for you.
The beach is only 50 – 100 yards away from the hotel and for children, is a great place to spend time. There are also lots and lots of shops in the vicinity and should you feel a bit fed up with cycling (I never did), you can take a wander around and get up to speed with Italian fashion. The hotel also offers a one day hiking tour with a very friendly Italian guide, Pippo, and our whole family took part in this. This is a great chance to explore the beautiful countryside/mountains around San Leo and makes a welcome change to the daily cycling routine.
All in all, we had a great holiday in Riccione and we can very much recommend this place to those who want to go on a cycling holiday or do some spring training. We paid 236 Euros per day for the whole family (half-board), I think the price for a single person is 80 Euros per day. We flew to Forli near Riccione with Ryanair (from Prestwick via Stansted) and, for an extra fee, we were transferred to and from the hotel with a minibus. There are regular adverts about bike hotels in Riccione in the back pages of Cycling Weekly and you can request a free catalogue via e-mail. The Hotel Dory also has its own website at www.dory.it for further information.
Rainer Goldbeck, April 2005
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